PG21531.B00801
PATERA COVERS.--In cases where the style of ornament permits of it, patera covers are used instead of pelleting. Fig. 358 shows the jointing of shaped spandrails, etc., to carcase ends of light portable cabinet work, etc. A hole is bored about 3/8 in. deep into the end, and a screw is used to hold the shaping in position. After fixing the rail a small turned button, called a turned patera, is inserted in the hole, thus giving an ornamental finish, as shown in the front view. The turned patera is driven fairly tightly into the hole, but not glued. When it is required to take the article apart a chisel is carefully inserted under the edge of the patera to remove it, and the screw can then be taken out. This method is often used for the construction of light hanging bookcases and similar objects. For a bookcase having an end 8 ins. wide three of these turned buttons and three screws would be used to secure the shelf to the end. Pateras in different styles may be purchased from any dealer in woodworking sundries.

PG21531.B00802
BUTTONING.--The tops of tables, sideboards, etc., should not be fixed with screws in the ordinary way. At the front, screws can be driven upwards through the top rail, but at the sides and back, buttons should be employed, as in Fig. 359, so that the top is free to shrink. It is otherwise liable to split if immovably fixed. The tops of kitchen tables are usually fixed in this way, to allow for shrinkage.

PG21531.B00803
[Illustration: Fig. 359.--Method of Buttoning a Table Top.]

PG21531.B00804
FRAMES FOR OIL PAINTINGS.--The method of making joints for frames on which the canvas is stretched for oil paintings is shown at Fig. 360. They are generally mitred at the corners and fitted with loose wedges. The four parts of the frame can be held temporarily by a piece of thin board while the canvas is being tacked to the edges of the frame. In the accompanying illustrations Fig. 360 shows the action of the wedges when tightening up the frame, the result being to open the mitre joint. Fig. 361 shows the position of the saw cuts for receiving the hardwood wedges. Note that the parallel groove is carried the full length of the material for greater convenience in cutting. The other groove is taken from the outer angle of the mitre joint inwards. The cut finishes with due regard to the necessary taper; see the dotted lines showing taper in Fig. 360. The grooves will be wide enough after being cut with an ordinary hand-rip saw, but for large work they are usually grooved on the circular saw bench.

PG21531.B00805
[Illustration: Fig. 360., Fig. 361. Joint and Method of Wedging the Frames of Oil Paintings.]

PG21531.B00806
CORRUGATED STEEL FASTENERS.--It is now many years ago since the steel saw-edge fastener first appeared on the market, but probably 80 per cent. of amateur woodworkers have never yet sampled its advantages.

PG21531.B00807
In appearance it resembles a miniature corrugated galvanised sheet such as is used for roofing purposes, with the exception, however, that the corrugations are divergent instead of being parallel and that one end is ground down to a cutting edge (see Fig. 363, A). They are made in various sizes from 1/4 in. to 1 in. in length, whilst in regard to width they are classed by the number of corrugations and not by their measurement.

PG21531.B00808
[Illustration: Fig. 362.--Jointing Boards.]

PG21531.B00809
[Illustration: Fig. 363.--Jointing a Frame.]

PG21531.B00810
[Illustration: The Use of Saw-edge Corrugated Steel Fasteners.]

PG21531.B00811
To use the fastener no special tools are required; it is simply driven in with a hammer exactly as though it were a nail; once in position, however, to get it out is worse than drawing teeth. The corrugations add to the strength of the device, the wood fibres closing around them, age and rust but emphasising their grip.

PG21531.B00812
WALL PLUGS.--At Fig. 364 four types of wall plugs are shown: _a_, the ordinary rectangular tapered wall plug to drive between the joints of the brickwork; _b_, the circular tapered wall plug as used to plug a wall after a star-shaped brick drill has been used; _d_, a twisted wall plug used for similar purposes to the wedge _a_, but considered to be superior in holding power owing to its twisted formation; _c_ is another type of wall plug considered to have great tenacity by reason of its corrugations. Wall plugs are required in nearly all cases where it is necessary to joint woodwork to brickwork, as, for instance, heavily-framed silvered mirrors to the walls of shops.

PG21531.B00813
[Illustration: Fig. 364.--Wall Plugs, Four Varieties.]

PG21531.B00814
[Illustration: Fig. 365.--Slot Screwing.]

PG21531.B00815
[Illustration: Fig. 366.--Slot Screwing a Bracket.]

PG21531.B00816
SLOT SCREWING, OR KEYHOLE SCREWING, is a most useful way of joining light woodwork in such a manner that the fixing method is not exposed to the eye. A stout screw is inserted to within 3/8 in. of the head, as at Fig. 365. In the adjoining piece a hole is bored with a centre bit and a slot is cut with an 1/8-in. chisel. The two pieces of timber are placed together, and by sliding the upper piece forward the screw runs up into the slot or keyhole and secures the joint. Fig. 366 shows the application of the joint fixing a shaped bracket to the shaped shelf; the bracket and shelf are inverted in the illustration to clearly show the method of jointing. For heavy work special brass plates are obtainable for this purpose; one plate is let flush into the upper piece and the other plate into the lower piece.

PG21531.B00817
Battening (Fig. 367).--A good method of joining cross battens to drawing boards and other wide surfaces is shown here. After boring for the screws, slots are cut so as to allow the screws to move along the slots when shrinkage takes place. In Fig. 368 a similar method is applied to secure the drawer bottom to the drawer back. If shrinkage takes place in the drawer bottom and it leaves the groove in the drawer front, the screws are slackened, the drawer bottom is knocked up into the groove, and the screws again inserted. For drawing boards, etc., specially made elliptical-shaped slotted brass socket cups are made to receive the screw heads.

PG21531.B00818
[Illustration: Fig. 367.--Battening.]

PG21531.B00819
[Illustration: Fig. 368.--Drawer Bottom Joint.]

PG21531.B00820
PUZZLE JOINTS

PG21531.B00821
Puzzle Joints are not only interesting in themselves, but are often excellent studies in craftsmanship. The majority of them, if to be satisfactory as puzzles, call for very careful setting out and cutting, entailing the same degree of skill that is demanded for high-class cabinet work. For this reason several examples may well find a place in a volume dealing with woodwork joints. As a rule, these puzzles should be made in hardwood, such as dark walnut or beech, as in whitewood the joints are soon liable to wear.

PG21531.B00822
[Illustration: Fig. 369.--Sketch of the Completed Chinese Puzzle.]

PG21531.B00823
CHINESE PUZZLE.--The ingenious puzzle of the Chinese type shown in Fig. 369 is probably older than many of us could guess, but as it is one that can be made by any woodworker we give full directions as to how it may be constructed. The complete article may be called, in form, a six-pointed pyramid. It is made up of twenty-one different pieces, each cut from wood 1/2 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick; 3/8 in. wood may be used if preferred. For the purpose either sycamore or white maple is the most useful.

PG21531.B00824
[Illustration: Fig. 370., Fig. 371., Fig. 372. The Three Cross Pieces.]

PG21531.B00825
[Illustration: Fig. 373.--Key Piece.]

PG21531.B00826
The pieces required are as follows:--

PG21531.B00827
Fig. 370.--Six pieces, 3-1/2 ins. long, with a half slot cut in the centre as shown. This slot must be exactly the width of the wood's thickness, and cut exactly half way through, so that, if two pieces are placed across by means of the halved joint, their surfaces will be flush. The slot must also be exactly in the centre.

PG21531.B00828
Fig. 371.--Six pieces, size 2-1/2 ins. long, with a half-cut centre slot similar to that of Fig. 370.

PG21531.B00829
Fig. 372.--Six required, these being 1-1/2 ins. in length, and with slots in the middle as before.

PG21531.B00830
Fig. 373.--One of these last six requires special treatment, as it forms the key block of the puzzle. After its slot has been cut, one half of the narrow part must be sawn away, as shown in Fig. 373. The inner edge must also be gently rounded. The special use of this vital piece, which we will call the "key," will be fully explained presently.

PG21531.B00831
Fig. 374.--Then, in addition to these, there are three central bars to make. Like the other parts they are 1/2 in. by 1/2 in., but are each 4-1/2 ins. long, and are cut as shown in Fig. 374. The end projections _a_ are 1/2 in. long, and the cut-away part is exactly half the depth of the wood. Two of the three pieces (X and Y in Fig. 374) are similar, but the slot _b_ of the third one (Z) is only 1/4 in. wide instead of 1/2 in. As will be noticed, this 1/4-in. slot is _not_ in the centre, but corresponds with the right-hand half of the larger slots of X and Y.

PG21531.B00832
[Illustration: Fig. 374.--The Central Bars.]

PG21531.B00833
In making these twenty-one pieces, what should be borne in mind is that the different parts fit closely into each other. Consequently the slots, in width, must be cut so as to grip the thickness of the wood; in depth they must be exactly half this thickness.

PG21531.B00834
FITTING THE PUZZLE.--The three central bars must first be joined, as those form the skeleton framework of the structure. Fig. 375 shows them in position, but as it is a puzzle in itself as to how they can be got thus some explanation is necessary.

PG21531.B00835
[Illustration: Fig. 375.--The Three Central Bars in Position.]

PG21531.B00836
[Illustration: Fig. 376.--How to Adjust the Bars. (Note position of projecting ends, _a_.)]

PG21531.B00837
FIRST STAGE.--First take the bars X and Y (see Fig. 374) and arrange them as shown in Fig. 376. It is most important that the projections _a_ of X face upwards, and that the projections _a_ of Y face towards the centre. Then take the bar Z and bring it flat into the slot of X. The little slot of Z, however, must remain _above_ the slot of X. Then slide the bar Y along to the centre, so that the part lettered _c_ slips into the little slot of bar Z.

PG21531.B00838
This may seem confusing to read, but it is easy to follow when the pieces are in one's hand. The result of this rather clever arrangement is that the six arms of Fig. 375 are all exactly the same length, width, and thickness. They are also arranged so that in each arm may be clasped one piece each of Figs. 370, 371, and 372. The three central arms may, of course, be set up in a different order, and here we have merely chosen the way that is the most simple to describe and illustrate.

PG21531.B00839
[Illustration: Fig. 377.--Beginning to place on the Cross Pieces.]

PG21531.B00840
[Illustration: Fig. 378.--Placing the Key Piece to overlap end projection of Central Bar.]

PG21531.B00841
SECOND STAGE.--In the remaining part of the work the chief difficulty is to keep the puzzle from falling to pieces before the key finally locks it. Take the longer cross parts, Fig. 370, and clasp one to each arm. The six need not all be put on meanwhile, but only those which are most easily handled. The next size (Fig. 371) may then be put on.

PG21531.B00842
In the ordinary course each arm could be completed with its three cross pieces till the sixth was attempted, and here the reader would find that, at the last moment, his attempt was frustrated. He could not get the last small piece in, as other bars lock the puzzle. Here it is that the "key" comes in.

PG21531.B00843
THE KEY PIECE.--When the writer fits up the puzzle he finds that three of the arms may straight away be fitted complete with their three cross parts. These are the ones where the longer cross piece (Fig. 370) _lies flush with the back of the central bar_ (see Fig. 377). This is easily found out when at work on the puzzle. In the case of the other three arms there is, of course, a gap caused by the long slots of the central bars. Adjust the parts on the first-named three arms, and then deal with the fourth arm, putting in all three cross parts. For the little one here, use the "key."

PG21531.B00844
By placing the "key" so that it _overlaps the end projection_ of the arm (see Fig. 378) a space is left at the centre, and means is thus afforded for getting in the three cross parts on the remaining two arms.

PG21531.B00845
This practically ends the puzzle. While the "key" is in its overlapping position the parts may be separated, but if it is _turned round on its narrow neck_, so that it is in exactly the same position as the other five small cross parts, it locks the whole thing so tightly that nothing but sheer force could loosen the twenty-one pieces.

PG21531.B00846
So far as the order of putting together is concerned, there are many equally satisfactory ways, these being determined by the ease or difficulty that one experiences in holding the half-finished puzzle. It all comes to the same in the end, and the "key" must be placed on one bar before the last three arms can be completed. The "key," moreover, must be on one of the bars where a gap is left at the centre, and not on one where Fig. 370 lies flush against the central arm as in Fig. 377.

PG21531.B00847
UNDOING THE PUZZLE.--To take the puzzle to pieces all that is required is to turn the "key" half round and push the other two cross bars on that arm towards the outer point. The cross bars below may then be removed, and the whole structure falls to pieces.

PG21531.B00848
THE DOUBLE DOVETAIL PUZZLE (Fig. 379) consists of two pieces of wood (usually one dark and the other light) which, upon examination, appear to be dovetailed together from each face. This interlocking arrangement is obviously impossible, and the solution of the puzzle is only apparent on examining Fig. 380, where it will be seen that the joint fits together diagonally.

PG21531.B00849
At Fig. 381 are given the diagrams for setting out. Draw the outline of the elevation, plan and end view. The end view in the first instance is indicated by 3, 4, 5 and 6, and it measures 1-7/8 ins. square. A 1-7/8-ins. square is simply used because 2-ins. wood generally finishes this size after it is planed up. Set out a square (A, B, C, D) which stands corner-ways in the larger square (3, 4, 5, 6). Project the lines D A and C B upwards as at 1, and on to this drawing (1), set out the dovetail according to your own idea of length, width and bevel. Project the four points of your dovetail downwards into the end view, and where these lines cut A, B, and D, C draw them downwards and rebate them into your original plan. This will give the true shape of the two dovetails and it is to this shape that you will cut your joint.

PG21531.B00850
The joint is in due course glued up, and next day you will plane and waste off the four corners of your model. The end view shows one corner shaded D, 3, A; this and the other three corners are wasted away. The result is that the dovetails are thrown into a plane different from that in which they were made, showing as Fig. 379.

PG21531.B00851
[Illustration: Fig. 379.--Double Dovetail Puzzle.]

PG21531.B00852
[Illustration: Fig. 380.--The Two Parts Separated.]

PG21531.B00853
[Illustration: Fig. 381.--Elevation, Plan and End View, showing how the Puzzle Joint may be correctly Set Out.]

PG21531.B00854
[Illustration: Fig. 382.--Dovetail Puzzle. The Finished Joint.]

PG21531.B00855
[Illustration: Fig. 383.--Sketch of Dovetail Piece.]

PG21531.B00856
(Note that dovetail is cut on slant, the thickness at front being less than at back. See dotted line on plan below.)

PG21531.B00857
[Illustration: Fig. 384.--Plan, looking upwards.]

PG21531.B00858
[Illustration: Fig. 385A.--Front Elevation.]

PG21531.B00859
[Illustration: Fig. 385B.--Back Elevation.]

PG21531.B00860
The model calls for very accurate workmanship and the joints must not be _undercut_ during the sawing and chiselling operations. The completed model measures 6 to 7 ins.

PG21531.B00861
THE DOVETAIL PUZZLE joint illustrated at Fig. 382 has perhaps caused more argument and controversy amongst woodworkers than any wooden joint. It may be neatly made in maple, walnut, or mahogany, and afterwards glued up. The question everyone asks is: How was it put together?

PG21531.B00862
[Illustration: Fig. 386.--Variation of the Dovetail Puzzle.]

PG21531.B00863
Take two pieces of wood such as mahogany, walnut or birch, about 6 ins. long by 1-7/8 ins. wide and 1-1/4 ins. thick. Truly plane them up and then set out and make the tenon and dovetailed piece (Fig. 383). Next mark out and cut the cross bar to fit its corresponding piece. The joint will go together in a somewhat diagonal direction as it is pushed into position from the back; when closed it will appear as at Fig. 382. For guidance, a plan, part elevation and back elevation are added.

PG21531.B00864
An improvement after you have gained experience in the making of this joint is to make a similar joint, leaving the face (B, Fig. 386) blind; it then does not show the bevelling of the dovetail at the end C. In other words, keep the line C, say, 1/4 in. back from the face of B. The joint should be glued up and it will then appear to the average worker that it is an impossible proposition. (See Fig. 401, page 208.)

PG21531.B00865
[Illustration: Fig. 387.--A Simple Variation of the Dovetail Puzzle.]

PG21531.B00866
Carefully note that the edges A, A are parallel to each other in spite of the fact that they slope in one direction.

PG21531.B00867
A further variation of the puzzle is seen in Fig. 387. Here the joint is much simpler, and can easily be followed from the illustration.

PG21531.B00868
[Illustration: Fig. 388.--Six-piece Joint Puzzle.]

PG21531.B00869
CROSS PUZZLE.--Fig. 388 illustrates a six-piece puzzle joint, similar in some respects to Fig. 369, but very much simpler. Both a back and front view of the piece D is shown for clearness of illustration. The method of assembling the pieces is as follows: Hold piece B upright, and fit piece D across; at the same time note that the small _x_ marks are opposite each other. Take piece E and, holding it as shown, slide it up the piece B (see arrow) until E engages D and the small _o_ marks are opposite each other. Piece C is now fitted behind D, and then piece F will slide in position and push downwards. The key-piece A is now put in position, and the puzzle is completed.

PG21531.B00870
[Illustration: Fig. 389.--Mortising Puzzle, showing how the Parts Fit.]

PG21531.B00871
MORTISING PUZZLE.--The ordinary mortising exercise is, after the first two or three attempts, generally voted as uninteresting, but, although the simple puzzle shown in Fig. 389 is practically an exercise in mortising, yet, forming as it does a puzzle, it becomes a fascinating piece of work.

PG21531.B00872
The puzzle is composed of three pieces of wood, each 4 ins. long, 1-1/2 ins. wide, and 1/2 in. thick. In each piece a mortise 1-1/2 ins. by 1/2 in. should be cut as shown at 1, Fig. 390. In one piece, marked 2, a groove is cut on one side, 3/8 in. wide, and in another piece (3) a similar slot, but 1/2 in. wide, is cut, and this is continued on the other side of the groove to a depth of 1/8 in. The three pieces should be set out on a 13-ins. by 1-1/2-ins. by 1/2-in. length of wood, as shown at Fig. 391, and when ready sawn apart.

PG21531.B00873
[Illustration: Fig. 390.--The Three Parts, with Sizes marked.]

PG21531.B00874
[Illustration: Fig. 391.--How to Cut the Parts.]

PG21531.B00875
The puzzle is put together as shown at Fig. 389. In the first place, hold No. 1 piece upright as shown at A, then take No. 2 piece with slot uppermost and push it through the opening in No. 1 piece until the nearest side of the slot projects 1/8 in. as indicated at B. Next place No. 3 piece on with the slot at the back as shown at C, and push it down until it touches the bottom of the opening in No. 2 piece as illustrated at D. The only thing to do now is to push No. 2 piece as far as it will go to make the figure as shown at E.

PG21531.B00876
In this puzzle the parts should fit together fairly tight, but should not be too stiff.

PG21531.B00877
[Illustration: Fig. 392.--Chinese Cross Puzzle.]

PG21531.B00878
[Illustration: Fig. 393.--Method of Putting Together.]

PG21531.B00879
[Illustration: Fig. 394.--The Six Pieces, each 4 ins. by 1 in. square.]

PG21531.B00880
CHINESE CROSS.--Fig. 392 shows a variation of the Chinese cross, which is perhaps the most fascinating of all woodwork puzzles. Take six pieces of hardwood (Fig. 394) and accurately plane and saw them so that each piece will measure 4 ins. by 1 in. by 1 in. Bearing in mind that all the cuts are multiples of 1/2 in., set out, saw and chisel five of the pieces to agree with the sketches 1, 1A, 2, 2A and 3. Leave the key piece intact. The puzzle is of course to fit all the six pieces together so as to form the Chinese cross or block given at Fig. 392. As a clue to the method of assembly we give another sketch (Fig. 393) showing four of the pieces fixed together. The reader can, if he so desires, make the puzzle to a smaller scale by using six pieces of wood each measuring 2 ins. long by 1/2 in. by 1/2 in.

PG21531.B00881
[Illustration: Fig. 395--Diagonal Chinese Cross Puzzle. (Two Pieces required of A, Three of B and One of C.)]

PG21531.B00882
DIAGONAL CHINESE CROSS.--At Fig. 395 is given a sketch of a completed Chinese block or cross puzzle in which the various pieces of wood go together diagonally. Plane up a piece of hardwood (which may be about 14 ins. or 15 ins. long) so that it measures on its end 1/2 in. square. Cut the wood into six pieces which measure about 2-1/4 ins. long, and then proceed to mark out, saw and pare up with the chisel two pieces like sketch A, three pieces like B, and one key piece as C. Now fit these together to make the completed cross. The solution is left to the reader.

PG21531.B00883
Fig. 396 shows a combination of six pieces which, when fitted together, will make the Chinese cross similar to Fig. 392. Plane up the strip of hardwood (birch preferred) so that it measures 1/2 in. square at the end and proceed to mark out and make two pieces like D, two like E, one like F, and one piece like G. Put the pieces together to form the Chinese cross. Again the reader is left to solve the problem of fitting.

PG21531.B00884
[Illustration: Fig. 396.--Another Chinese Cross. (Two Pieces required of D, Two of E, and One each of F and G.)]

PG21531.B00885
SQUARE PUZZLES are of endless variety. Four of these are shown, all simple to make, but not equally simple to solve. The only material required for each is a 5-ins. square piece of 1/8-in. fretwood or plywood; or, if preferred, pieces of different colour may be used. The diagrams are given exactly half size, and the lines may be set out direct on the wood. It will be noticed that all four puzzles are strictly geometrical in character.

PG21531.B00886
[Illustration: Fig. 397.--Six-piece Square Puzzle. (For Guidance in Setting Out, the Centre of Top Line is marked at A.)]

PG21531.B00887
[Illustration: Fig. 398.--Five-piece Square Puzzle. (In Setting Out, note that the Angles B B are Right Angles.)]

PG21531.B00888
[Illustration: Fig. 399.--Ten-piece Square Puzzle. (For Guidance in Setting Out, the Centre of the Four Outlines are lettered at C, C, C, C.)]

PG21531.B00889
[Illustration: Fig. 400.--Six-piece Square Puzzle. (The Centres of the Four Outlines are lettered at D, D, D, D.)]

PG21531.B00890
Fig. 397 is made up of six pieces and is the simplest of the group to solve. Although containing only five pieces, Fig. 398 will be found to give more trouble.

PG21531.B00891
Fig. 399, with ten pieces, is undoubtedly the most trying puzzle, and will be found as baffling as many jig-saw pictures. Fig. 400, again, presents only moderate difficulties.

PG21531.B00892
If the reader prefers, he may cut the squares to the size illustrated instead of enlarging them.

PG21531.B00893
[Illustration: Fig. 401.--Blind Dovetail Puzzle Joint (see page 199).]

PG21531.B00894
INDEX

PG21531.B00895
Angle, mitre, 163, 164

PG21531.B00896
Angles for dovetails, 134

PG21531.B00897
Astragals, 128, 129

PG21531.B00898
Back flap hinges, 115, 116

PG21531.B00899
Barefaced (_see under_ Tenon).

PG21531.B00900
Barred door joint, 55

PG21531.B00901
Barrow-wheel joints, 20

PG21531.B00902
Battening, 188

PG21531.B00903
Bevelled dovetailing, 149

PG21531.B00904
Bevelling, guide block for, 161

PG21531.B00905
Birdsmouth joints, 181

PG21531.B00906
Blind lap-dovetailing, 145

PG21531.B00907
Boards, weather, 176

PG21531.B00908
Bolts for scarf joint, 107, 108

PG21531.B00909
Boring away waste, 41, 42

PG21531.B00910
Box, laminated core, 175

PG21531.B00911
Box lid, hingeing, 113

PG21531.B00912
Boxes, dovetails for, 133

PG21531.B00913
Brace and bit, use of, 41, 42

PG21531.B00914
Brass astragal, 129

PG21531.B00915
Bridle joint, mitred, 36, 37

PG21531.B00916
Bridle joint, oblique, 37, 38

PG21531.B00917
Bridle joints, 35

PG21531.B00918
Bridle joints, setting out, 39

PG21531.B00919
Butt hinge, 110, 111

PG21531.B00920
Butt hinge, rising, 115, 116

PG21531.B00921
Butting mitred joint, 8

PG21531.B00922
Buttoning, 184

PG21531.B00923
Carcase work, dovetailing, 149

PG21531.B00924
Card table hinges, 115, 116

PG21531.B00925
Chair joint, interlocking, 91

PG21531.B00926
Chinese cross puzzle, 203

PG21531.B00927
Chinese cross puzzle, diagonal, 204

PG21531.B00928
Chinese puzzle, 189, 190

PG21531.B00929
Chisel used in dovetailing, 137, 138, 153

PG21531.B00930
Chiselling (bridle joints), 45

PG21531.B00931
Chiselling (halved joints), 30, etc.

PG21531.B00932
Chiselling (mortise and tenon joints), 89, etc.

PG21531.B00933
Circular frames, 172

PG21531.B00934
Clamping, 80, 82

PG21531.B00935
Close joint hingeing, 125

PG21531.B00936
Cogged joints, 181

PG21531.B00937
Column joints, 179

PG21531.B00938
Combing joint, 55

PG21531.B00939
Core box, laminated, 175

PG21531.B00940
Corner dovetail, 152

PG21531.B00941
Corner joints, halved, 14

PG21531.B00942
Corner tongued joints, 55, 56

PG21531.B00943
Cornice frame dovetailed, 143, 144

PG21531.B00944
Cornice pole, dowelling, 97, 98

PG21531.B00945
Cornice pole joints, 177

PG21531.B00946
Corrugated steel fasteners, 185

PG21531.B00947
Cot joints, 178

PG21531.B00948
Countersink bit, 96

PG21531.B00949
Cradle for planing, 52

PG21531.B00950
Cradle for planing dowels, 94

PG21531.B00951
Cramping glued joints, 11, 12

PG21531.B00952
Cramping tongued and grooved mitre joint, 56, 57
